- Firstly, it is important to achieve mastery of the basic techniques used when applying Glass Coat. To really understand the product, it’s best to learn on a small surface first. Try glossing a small tray, a placemat, or small coffee table before embarking on a major project. If you get it wrong over a large area the task of rectifying the problem can be expensive and time-consuming.
- Secondly, remember that Glass Coat only stays workable for between 20 to 30 minutes. Now you don’t want to wait for that time before pouring the mixture over your surface. That’s the time in which you must complete your project.
- And the temperature in the room is very important. So too is the humidity. You must ensure that theGlass Coat is nicely viscous so that it pours and spreads with ease. Very cold temperatures will cause the mixture to remain thick and will retard the pouring process. Try to bring room temperature up to over 23 degrees Celsius. And try to work in an area where the humidity is not too great. Too much moisture in the atmosphere will cause some pitting on the surface as the Glass Coat cures.
- Have someone helping you mix the two parts together in smallish containers (even with large projects, it is better to mix up several, or many, smaller lots of say 200ml than to mix one large quantity). And make sure your helper is as skilled as you are in blending the two parts together thoroughly.
- Understand the importance of MASKING the surrounds. Masking off can be a lot more time consuming that the actually mixing and pouring. This task very often determines how good your project will look. If you are intending to coat a large wooden bench then it is important to consider not just the surface (that’s easy!) but how you are going to manage the edges (that’s potentially more challenging!). Is the edge at right angles to the surface or is it a bull-nose edge or a tapered edge? Is the bench-top recessed or does it have a raised edge or border? These are all questions that have to be answered before starting the job.
- While on the subject of masking you should also consider putting a skirt around the edges
- When dealing with edges, you must realise that Glass Coat poured onto the surface will give you a slightly different finish to Glass Coat painted around the edges with a brush. On a vertical surface (as distinct from a flat, horizontal surface) you have to manage edges in just the same way that you do when using enamel paint – the paint will tend to “run” if not properly applied. So too will Glass Coat.
- Remember too the importance of sealing the timber surface properly. Do not sand after sealing. The resin may well draw oils and contaminants out of some timbers, so it is vital to have a barrier between the wood and the gloss. In fact, you can use a polyurethane sealer or even a finisher if you like.
- Once you’ve sealed the surface, don’t undo all the good you’ve done by touching the surface with oily fingers (and keep the kids away too!). In fact, all you should do is lightly dust the surface if there has been some time delay between sealing and glossing.
- And talking about dust. Remember that you can always put a small project into a dust-free cupboard or closet to cure. But if you are working in an open area such as a kitchen or family room, then it’s vital to not disturb the atmosphere in the room any more than is necessary. Dust, lint, specks of whatever landing on the nicely glossed surface will spoil the great effect of Glass Coat.
- What about air bubbles? Well, on smallish jobs the air bubbles may be more noticeable than on big areas. But you should treat them just the same. Except that your butane torch might need to be bigger for bigger jobs. The important things about sweeping over the surface with a naked flame are these: keep the torch moving; don’t direct the flame at any particular air-bubble; don’t have the flame too close to the surface. The key to understanding why you use a flame is important. We apply heat only to expand the pockets of air slightly enough for them to “pop” through the surface.